Phnom Penh – A City of Occupations

Phnom Penh, founded alongside the Tonle Sap and Bassac rivers, has been the capital of Cambodia since the mid15th century, after Angkor was abandoned.

Most of modern day Phnom Penh was built while under the colonial control of the French, (who occupied it in 1864 as an extension of their interests in Vietnam). In its heyday, the city was considered one of the most picturesque in Southeast Asia.

Since gaining independence from France in 1953, decades of political turmoil have constantly transformed Phnom Penh. A domineering monarchy was deposed in 1970 by the military as the country was dragged kicking and screaming into the Vietnam War.

Reign of Terror

Under the direction of Henry Kissinger, the countryside was carpet-bombed to “root out” Vietnamese communists. This insane military strategy drove the rural population into the capital, creating an overpopulated metropolis of hungry people, and paving the way for the eventual Khmer Rouge takeover under Pol Pot.

In April 1975, (two weeks before the fall of Saigon) the U.S. forces abandoned the city as the Khmer Rouge moved in. Initially welcomed, the KR soon instituted harsh policies (somewhat similar to China’s cultural revolution), including forcing almost the entire population back into the countryside to produce rice. The city was transformed into a ghost town, and the site of countless political tortures and murders. Tuol Saleng, a high school that was converted by the KR into an interrogation/torture centre has been preserved as the Museum of Genocide – a chilling reminder of a truly horrible period.

The Struggle for Peace

In 1979, fed up with overambitious border attacks by the KR, Vietnam invaded Cambodia, taking over Phnom Penh, driving the KR into hiding in the countryside and plunging the country into 16 years of civil war. A $3 billion UN peacekeeping initiative resulted in the election of current Prime Minister Hun Sen, who made a concerted attack on the Khmer Rouge through military means and dubious amnesties, effectively eliminating them.

A City on the Mend

With country now stabilized, Phnom Penh is steadily being restored to former glories as the Cambodian economy recovers. Despite ongoing high employment, the streets are lively during daylight hours, and there is an unmistakable optimism in the air.

Among its growing attractions are its laid back atmosphere, and lovely (and inexpensive) French food served in terraced restaurants along the Tonle Sap river. The National Museum and Grand Palace have also been restored and receive a growing number of international visitors.

Siem Reap – A City Carved in Stone

From the 9th to the 14th centuries, (at a time when Europe was still struggling out of the Dark Ages),
the Cambodian Empire of Angkor encompassed most of present-day Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand.

The heart of this empire during its peak in the 12th century was the ancient capital of Angkor Thom (near present day Siem Reap), the site of the world’s largest temple complexes that was only rediscovered in 1861, overgrown by jungle.

This spectacular city was built over 30 years under the reign of Suryavarman II (1113-1150). The whole area covers 400 square kilometers and is brimming with the finest examples of Khmer art and architecture.

Visitors are always amazed at the sheer scale of the place. Within the Angkor Wat compound alone, you will find more than 100 stone monuments and temple edifices, each of which contains countless statues, sculptures and bas reliefs that have weathered extremely well over the last 800 years. To see the whole thing can take several days, as you get delightfully lost in its labyrinthine corridors.

The most important temples to visit in the area are Angkor Wat – especially at sunrise and sunset; Angkor Thom, the remains of the capital; Ta Prohm, a palace overgrown by jungle; and Preah Khan, which is also overgrown and in the process of restoration.

SE Asia’s Great Lake

The Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, covering 27,000 hectares in dry season (November to May) and 150,000 hectares during the rainy season (June to October). The Tonle Sap River reverses according to the season and the Tonle Sap acts as an overflow reservoir for the huge Mekong River. It is a beautiful and tranquil place to explore by boat and visitors to the area shouldn’t miss the opportunity to do so.

The Tonle Sap is more than just a pretty face though. It is vital to Cambodia’s already tenuous survival.

It produces 100,000 tons of fish every year – an incredible 80% of the population’s protein intake. Unfortunately, huge dam projects in China along with others in Laos and Thailand are affecting the flow of water and threatening the ecosystem of this magnificent body of water.

While most Khmer people are relaxed and friendly, there are a few nasty folks around. The country is very poor and has experienced a lot of warfare and death, so for some, life can be pretty cheap.

Nonetheless, with the proper precautions, there is no reason you can’t enjoy a safe holiday in Cambodia.

Phnom Penh late at night is not particularly safe for walking. Be sure to take a taxi if you have a late night. If you find yourself having to walk for some reason, stay to well-lit streets as much as possible. If by some unfortunate chance, you do get accosted, have some money ready (about $10 will do) and hand it over without resisting — your life cannot be bought back for any amount of money.

Siem Reap is very safe at night. It is a small town and the local businessmen are very keen that visitors feel safe and are safe. By way of example, you can walk around raging drunk at 3am, and nobody will bother you. Or alternatively, an arm-in-arm evening stroll need present no difficulties nor anxiety.

Khmers love kids — especially foreign (and blonde) ones and will lavish plenty of attention on them — it’s well intentioned, so you needn’t worry unduly.

People tend to drive like maniacs in whatever lane takes their fancy, and don’t respect zebra crossings at all, so take particular care when near roads. Instruct older children that this is not like home and to remain alert. Hold onto younger kids when crossing the street. Such practices as kidnapping are actually less common here than they are in the west. The vast majority of the Khmer people don’t want to make any trouble for you or your family.

Angkor Century
The Olive Tree restaurant setting makes a perfect backdrop for romantic dinners, business occasions or simply for the enjoyment of fine meal.
At Angkor Century Hotel. Sivatha St. Tel: (855 63) 963777 , Fax: (855 63) 963123. www.angkorcentury.com

Angkor Green restaurant
Good Khmer food at reasonable price ($1.5-5). Also vegetarian, Chinese, Thai and French food. Tel: 012630006. N324 Sivatha St.

Angkor Village Restaurant
Traditional Khmer cuisine a la carte or set menu served in a charming and quiet atmosphere and a really pleasant place surrounded by water and lotus. Good wine list.
100 metres behind Bayon Hotel. Tel: (855 63) 963536

Bopha Angkor Restaurant
Very famous traditional Khmer food in town with an high standard of presentation. Tropical garden with plants and water-covered Bayon statues provide a romantic atmosphere. Refreshments, cocktails, Ice cream, crepes available on their river terrace.
On Vithei Achasva Rd (in front of the river). Tel: (855 63) 964928

The Red Piano

International food, pastas, steaks, etc. in a charming place. Headquarters of the Tomb Raiders movie team during their stay in Siem Reap in November 2000. Kitchen open till 10:15 pm.
Located 50 meters north of the old Market (Psaa Chas). Tel: 012 854150 – (855 63) 963240. www.asianexp.net

Zanzibar
A lo t of regulars living in Siem Reap and some tourists. Marc & Olivier, the owners speak French and English. Good music and more…
On Sivatha opp. Bakeng Night club near old market.

You don’t have to drive it too hard with the Khmer people. Given their recent history, they don’t tend to be very savvy business people, and with high unemployment, there is a lot of competition, so the margins are often very low. If the price seems reasonable, take it.

Cambodia is Asia’s fastest growing tourist destination. After about 35 years of non-stop war, this beautiful country is finally re-emerging from the darkness.

Since the time of the Vietnam war in the sixties, Cambodia has had to suffer “secret” carpet bombings by the United States, followed by the reign of terror of the Khmer Rouge, a Vietnamese takeover, and a further 20 years of civil war.

Following U.N. peacekeeping efforts, the somewhat dubious election of Prime Minister Hun Sen and the dismantling of the Khmer Rouge, the country is now enjoying a period of stability and new-found optimism. It’s many wonders are now open to visitors.

Phnom Penh: Asia Meets Europe

The capital city of Phnom Penh (pop. 1 million) is a lively place these days. Cars and motorcycles careen through charming streets lined with many French style buildings dating back to its days as a French colony in the first half of this century. The center of city life is the riverfront boulevard, featuring many bars and restaurants with a big emphasis on French-style food.

One attraction worth visiting (though not for the faint-hearted) is the Killing Field Museum (Tuol Sleng), a former school taken over in 1975 by the Khmer Rouge and converted into a torture chamber. The National Museum is less grisly, with an emphasis on Ancient Khmer history.

The Temples of Angkor

The biggest attraction for most visitors are the temple ruins at Angkor, just a few kilometers from the colonial city of Siem Reap. Well preserved stone temple ruins dating back about 1,000 years cover an area of 200 sq. kilometers. Visitors can easily spend several days exploring here, taking in the thousands of exquisite statues and bas relief carvings that adorn the walls of seemingly endless temple buildings and chedis. A cruise on the Tonle Sap — Asia’s largest freshwater lake — is also a memorable experience.

A Word of Warning: Though Cambodia is now more peaceful than at any time in the last 30 years, visitors should still exercise caution – particularly in the capital. Confine tourism activities to the daytime, since the dimly-lit streets can be dangerous at night. In the more rural areas, stick to well-established pathways (or better yet, travel with a qualified guide), since there are still countless landmines left over from the war years. Hazards aside though, a little prudence is all that’s required to enjoy a safe and happy holiday in this remarkable country.

Cambodia Travel Destinations

Siem Reap is a small colonial town just north of Southeast Asia’s largest lake, Tonle Sap.

Phnom Penh, founded alongside the Tonle Sap and Bassac rivers, has been the capital of Cambodia since the mid15th century, after Angkor was abandoned.